Entertainment/Ticket - Dining

Wednesday, Aug. 13, 2008

Dining Out: A taste of Provence in new SLO crepery

Located in the heart of downtown, Crepes de Provence offers an eclectic mix of classic French cuisine with a Moroccan twist

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Opening a restaurant in downtown San Luis Obispo has its perks and its downfalls. The city’s ideal weather and charming shops draw ample crowds each day, but it is also packed with other enticing restaurants that make the competition steep and that keeps the rents high.

But a new restaurant — Crepes de Provence—may have a shot at competing with the best of SLO’s bistros.

It recently opened at 1074 Higuera St. next to the county government building. The first two cafes that opened there failed, but Moroccanborn Chef Majid Bennis, who was trained in Paris on classic French cuisine, believes he has a perfect fit.

His menu is fresh and eclectic but also offers the classic French specialties such as ratatouille, nicoise salad and, of course, crepes.

While his menu is inspired by the Provence region of France, he brings elements of Moroccan cooking to some of his dishes.

“The distance between Morocco and Paris on a plane is just two hours,” he said. “They’re very connected.”

Breakfast or lunch

The cafe is as appealing for breakfast as it is for lunch. With San Luis Obispo’s temperate weather, the patio offers an ideal spot to enjoy a steaming cappuccino or fresh-pressed espresso alongside an omelet or egg-and-cheese crepe.

The Bonjour Crepe ($4.25) folds scrambled eggs and cheddar cheese into a thin crepe. The hot breakfast is satisfying although not too heavy and the eggs are seasoned just enough to taste slightly peppery.

Other breakfast crepes include sweet combinations such as the Mon Ami ($3.75) that meshes cream cheese and apricot preserves into a delightfully rich crepe.

Another that I have yet to try is the Orange Crepe ($3.75) that combines orange marmalade over melting Swiss cheese.

For lunch, the appealing options continue. Diners can enjoy a savory crepe, a hamburger, beef or chicken brochettes, salads and the ratatouille.

Burgers and more

The Burger Provencal ($6) is served atop sautéed onions and mushrooms, sliced tomato, spicy arugula. The bun is spread with aioli that brings the traditional flavors together.

The Moulin Rouge Crepe ($6.75) is a delicious Moroccan twist on the classic French pancake. Filled with shredded chicken, sweet caramelized onions, golden raisins and roasted almonds, the crepe was both sweet and savory at the same time.

Lacking the usual fillings of cheese or sweet fruits, it was less filling and an ideal lunch paired with the restaurant’s mixed green salad.

Another standout is the Avignon Crepe ($6.75). Filled with diced chicken breast, sliced sautéed mushrooms and oozing Swiss cheese, the crepe came with a side of silky béchamel sauce. This crepe is heavier, but richer and packed with flavor.

Each savory crepe comes with a side of a mixed green salad or roasted potatoes. The potatoes are soft with a slightly crisped skin and seasoned lightly with herbs and olive oil.

Sweet crepes, ooh la la

Sweet crepes should not be missed for dessert. The cafe’s signature — La Provencale—captures the perfect result when simple but good ingredients are paired.

Dusted with lavender sugar and topped with a bit of butter, it doesn’t get much better than this. Unless, of course, it’s enjoyed on the streets of Paris. But for now, Crepes de Provence is close enough.

Reach Dawn White at 781-7946.