Entertainment/Ticket - Dining

Wednesday, Aug. 06, 2008

Dining Out: Robins is a jewel in the pines

Robin’s Restaurant has been serving up savory, eclectic entrees made from fresh ingredients for nearly 25 years in Cambria’s East Village

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W hen temperatures regularly hit triple digits 100-degree mark in most parts of the county, it’s a cool idea to visit the coast.

If you’re heading to Cambria, head to Robin’s Restaurant— a favorite lunch and dinner spot for locals.

Robin’s offers an eclectic mix of unique dishes from around the world. Mostly influenced by Asian flavors, there are Thai curries, Mongolian ribs, Vietnamese stir-fries and Indian lamb rolls; enchiladas, burritos and Angus burgers are also available.

On my first visit for dinner, I started with the Crispy Vietnamese Lumpia ($8). The deep-fried, vegetarian spring rolls were artfully plated as four vertical stacks, with a sweet-and-spicy dipping sauce and house-made kimchi on the side. The rolls were crunchy and perfectly matched with the dipping sauce, and the kimchi was fresh and aromatic.

My husband started with the Panko Crusted Calamari ($9), which was served atop a base of Asian slaw. The combination of the fried calamari and the fresh citrus slaw was

unique and delicious. A side of chili aioli offered yet another layer of flavor.

Ribs and fish

For entrees, we ordered one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, the Mongolian- Style Baby Pork Ribs ($25), and one of the specials, Hazelnut-Crusted Mahi-Mahi ($25). The mahi-mahi was served on top of a crispy lemon rice cake and Chinese long beans. Surrounded by a pool of herb-infused fumet, the dish looked like a piece of art.

And beyond looking beautiful, the fish was perfectly cooked, and the deep-fried rice cake below it was a perfect partner.

My pork ribs were piled high and were tender and succulent, with a spicy soy-infused sauce. Served with warm potato salad and grilled nectarines, it was easy to see why this is such a local favorite.

Some history

Shanny Covey owns Robin’s. The restaurant takes its name from Shanny’s ex-husband, Robin Covey, who she founded the restaurant with in 1985. Originally from Singapore, Shanny was the inspiration for the Asian flavors on the menu. (Robin is no longer involved but has his own restaurant in San Luis Obispo, the popular Novo.)

Before the restaurant, the couple owned a health food store in Cambria, and the influence of fresh, healthy food is everywhere.

“The whole idea initially when we opened was to serve fresh food that was affordable and interesting,” Shanny said. “We really wanted the menu to be a reflection of our beliefs and philosophies on eating.”

Almost all the vegetables served are purchased from local farmers markets.

Deli salads for lunch

For lunch Shanny offers a selection of internationally inspired deli salads that take advantage of those fresh ingredients. Up to six are available daily from a list of 27, such as snap peas and mozzarella or couscous with prawns and zucchini. A trio of these salads is offered as a lunch entree for $13.

Whether for lunch or dinner, a delightful place to eat is Robin’s covered patio. About half the restaurant’s tables are on this vine-covered, gardenlike space; on cool afternoons or evenings, heaters keep the space warm and inviting.

Inside the restaurant feels like the private living room it once was. The original home was built in 1935 by Frank Souza, a construction foreman at Hearst Castle.

Behind the scenes is executive chef Shaun Behrens, a graduate of the San Francisco Culinary Academy. Behrens, a Central Coast native, has been cooking “fusion”- style food in San Francisco, the Pacific Northwest and most recently in Mendocino County.

Keeping with the restaurant’s theme of “Great food from around the world,” Robin’s offers a monthly Prix Fixe Dinner . These dinners highlight a specific region or country’s cuisine. This Friday she will feature “Food of the America’s, a Celebration of Corn.”

The wine list at Robin’s is also international, featuring wines from France, Italy, Austria, California and a wide selection of Central Coast wines. There are also two sakes and a wide selection of organic teas and chai.

Robin’s is a jewel on the coast. A place to enjoy a romantic dinner or a relaxing lunch with friends. In either case, you’ll enjoy the efficient service, the stunning food and the unique and delicious flavors that are rarely found all in one place.