Local Flavors: Seafood not the only specialty at Windows

Waterfront eatery’s executive chef offers upscale, but casual dining by the bay

Katy Budge

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Given its waterfront location in Morro Bay, you’d expect Windows on the Water to have great seafood such as Pacific Bouillabaisse, Prawn Martinis and the restaurant’s signature Crispy Sand Dabs.

But the wide-ranging experience of Executive Chef Neil Smith assures that there’s something for everyone on the menu of “upscale, but casual world cuisine,” he says.

On any given night the non-fish dishes can range from Hawaiian Short Ribs to “Knife & Fork BLT Salad,” Maple Leaf Duck Breast to Dijon Crusted Lamb Chops and Stuffed Pork Loin to Oak Fired Rib Eye.

BOUILLON-STYLE CLAM CHOWDER

Neil Smith offers a gourmet twist on a seaside favorite with his recipe for Bouillon- Style Clam Chowder.

“The chowder seems to taste better if allowed to sit or ‘season’ for a couple hours or made a day ahead of time,” he says.

• 8 pounds Littleneck, Manila, Cockle or other small clam

• 4 ounces bacon, diced

• 2 shallots, diced

• 1-1/2 cups celery, chopped

• 1-1/2 cups onions, chopped

• 3-4 bay leaves

• 2-3 sprigs tarragon, chopped

• 8 basil leaves, chopped

• 1 tablespoon Herbes de Provence

• 2 pounds Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled, diced into 1/2-inch cubes

• 1 to 1-1/2 cups clam broth (reserved from cooking clams)

• 1-1/2 cups heavy whipping cream

• 1/2 cup buttermilk

• Salt and pepper to taste

Rinse clams thoroughly several times, making sure as much of the grit as possible is removed. Place clams and 2 cups water in an 8-quart stock-pot, cover and steam for 6-8 minutes stirring once or twice. Remove clams from pot and pour liquid into tall container. Discard any unopened clams.

After clams are cooled remove meat (chop if desired) and set aside.

Allow any grit to settle out of liquid and carefully pour off as much of the broth as possible and reserve.

Heat a 7-to 8-quart, thick-bottomed pot and add bacon. Sauté bacon until crisp.

Add shallots and sauté until translucent.

Add bay leaves, herbs, celery, onions and potatoes and about 1 to 1-1/2 cups of the reserved clam broth to cover potatoes. Boil for 10 minutes or until potatoes are almost done.

Add cream and buttermilk and return to a simmer.

Add reserved clam meat.

Season with salt and pepper to taste and garnish with fresh herbs and steamed clams.

—Katy Budge

TO LEARN MORE ...

Windows on the Water is located at Marina Square, 699 Embarcadero in Morro Bay, and is open nightly for dinner at 5 p. m. For menus, more information and online reservations, visit www.windowsonthewater.net or call 772-0677. The restaurant offers a Three Course Chef’s Prix Fixe menu for $30/pp Sunday through Thursday with wine pairings available for an additional charge.

The wood burning oven also allows Smith to create a variety of pizzas nightly, as well as a warm Brie and D’Anjou pear crostini.

Food service at early age

Smith got his culinary start in a Chinese restaurant when he was 14, “the minimum age you could be,” he recalled. “I started as a busboy, but I fell in love right away with cooking,” and soon found himself wielding a wok in the kitchen.

When Smith turned his attention to fine dining establishments, he began his informal training in earnest “by trying to learn everything I could from the chefs.”

He made it a point to work “in all kinds of restaurants so I could offer people a little bit of everything—that’s important,” he said.

Local, local, local

Though some items are a mainstay at Windows on the Water, Smith noted that “we print our menu daily, which gives me the opportunity to do my style of food, to use a lot of fresh ingredients. I also try to buy local and keep the money in the county.”

To that end, Smith obtains locally raised abalone and beef, and he shops weekly at the Morro Bay Farmers Market.

“I like to look at the faces of the people growing the food,” he said. “After all, without farms and farmers, there would be no restaurants.”

Katy Budge is a freelance writer from Atascadero. If you have a favorite “Local Flavor” you’d like to see featured, e-mail your suggestions to ktbudge@sbcglobal.net.