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Wednesday, Aug. 20, 2008

The Grapevine: California whites perfect way to toast end of summer

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August is more than half gone, and the kids are going back to school soon. But that doesn’t mean the hot weather is over. The warm days of late summer and early fall provide ample time to explore the fresh, crisp white wines that are so refreshing when the temperature climbs.

Back in June, I told you about some delicious white wines for summertime quaffing. But I’ve had the opportunity since then to taste a number of excellent whites. So consider this a second installment. Best of all, they all cost $20 or less.

Sauvignon blanc

A racy sauvignon blanc is my favorite summer wine. New Zealand is a good source of this sort of sauvignon blanc, as is France’s Sancerre region. But this time around, most of my recommendations are from California.

The 2007 Bernardus Sauvignon Blanc ($15) is another winner from this Monterey winery. It offers crisp pink grapefruit and honeydew melon flavors. From the Napa Valley, the 2007 Voss Sauvignon Blanc ($20) is fragrant and fresh, with pink grapefruit and honeydew melon flavors and a persistent core of acidity. The 2007 Charles Krug Sauvignon Blanc ($18) has similar flavors, along with a hint of tomato stem. The bargain-priced 2007 Sterling Sauvignon Blanc ($13) is fresh and citrusy, with pink grapefruit.

Sonoma County is the source of the 2007 Kenwood Sauvignon Blanc ($13), with its juicy pink grapefruit and melon flavors. An inexpensive sauvignon blanc that should be easy to find is the 2007 Kendall-Jackson “Vintner’s Reserve” ($11), a juicy, slightly grassy version of the varietal.

The 2007 Penalolen Sauvignon Blanc ($12) is from Chile’s cool Limari region; it’s fresh and fragrant, with plenty of racy fruit.

Chardonnay

There’s a place for bigger, richer chardonnays, but my picks for summer and the lighter foods I’m eating are the chardonnays that are lean and zingy, with plenty of fruit, firm acidity and not too much oak or alcohol. One example is the 2006 Estancia Pinnacles Ranches Chardonnay ($12), a refreshing wine brimming with apples and pears. The 2007 Taz Chardonnay ($20) from Santa Barbara County is racy and lemony, with green apple flavors and plenty of zip.

Pinot gris/grigio

For summer, I’m looking for pinot grigios (sometimes called by the French name, pinot gris) that are light and crisp yet flavor-

ful. (Some are so light they have virtually no flavor — if I want a cold, flavorless liquid, I’ll stick to water.) From California, the 2007 Taz Pinot Gris ($15) offers juicy white peach and lemon flavors. The 2007 Hogue Cellars Pinot Grigio ($9) from Washington, has flavors of citrus, white stone fruit and a hint of creaminess. The 2007 Ruffino “Lumina” Pinot Grigio ($13) is an Italian version that’s very crisp, with lemon-lime fruit and a drying finish.

Other whites

Summer is a great time to explore some of the lesser- known white varieties. Take albarino. We’re starting to see some good examples from California, like the Tangent from Edna Valley. But there are some delicious albarinos from the grape’s traditional home in the Rias Baixas region of Spain. The 2007 Alba Rosa Albarino ($20), for example, has zingy citrus and mineral flavors with a faint note of white pepper, while the 2007 Condes de Albarei Albarino ($13) is a little rounder, with fresh white stone fruit and citrus.

The 2007 Ca’ del Solo Muscat ($17) is less sweet than many muscats, but it still has a wonderful floral perfume and flavors of citrus and white peach. The 2006 Thomas Fogarty Gewürztraminer ($17) is a dry version of this grape variety, with the typical aromas and flavors of lychee and rose petals.

Finally, the nonvintage Seven Daughters Winemaker’s Blend ($15) is an eclectic blend of French colombard, chardonnay, riesling, symphony and lesser amounts of orange muscat, gewürztraminer and sauvignon blanc; it’s racy yet round with apple, pear and citrus flavors.